Trying to get key fob to work

[tomagin]

First would like to say that my system has now flown and I'm very happy with it. The more I fly the more user friendly it becomes.

I have been trying to get the key fob to associate without success following the directions. There is enough power to illuminate the l.e.d. that is inside but maybe not enough to transmit. The key fob is over a year old but has never been used.

Any suggestions? Change the battery is of course the first one that comes to mind. I'll do this but anything else I should try?

I understand that only the center button should work with the current software and this should turn on the unit from outside the aircraft.

Tom

[Marc Ausman]

Tom, glad you are flying.

The key fob has been working for several versions. As of today, the latest is v20.6j. I recommend you upgrade to that version. There's nothing new in it with regards to the remote though.

The battery should still be good, but it can't hurt to replace it. Make sure the antenna is secure,and follow the directions carefully. There are several steps that have to be done within a specified period of time. We configure and test each remote with its associated system prior to leaving the factory.

Try the "clear remotes" function before configuring the new one.

Otherwise, it is pretty straightforward. Each remote must be uniquely associated with the control unit.

[tomagin]

Marc, tonight I spent again quite a bit of time trying to get the remote to associate. I didn't change the battery yet. The remote seems to be doing what it is supposed to as far as the little light that goes on with the paper clip. You are correct the instructions are simple.

1. The latest software revision was installed when it came out but as you say it didn't change anything with the remotes.

2. I did clear push the clear remotes soft key each time I tried to associate.

3. I do not get the same screen as in the manual when I push "learn". Also the page you get before pressing learn only shows 4 FOB buttons and not five as the manual says. The same afterwards.

4. After pressing learn there is no text for each button to change color. The same 4 lines appear before and after going throught the process of pushing each button within 17 sec of the flashing light going out. 4 not 5

5. I removed and reinsalled the antenna on the CU. It is either screwed on or not. Not much that go wrong there if the antenna works.

Since I never get a screen showing text for 5 buttons that should change color when recognized I suspect something else is amiss.

If you want screen shots I can get them.

Everything else works as advertised on the ground and in flight.

Tom

[Marc Ausman]

The picture in the manual is old and has been updated. We only show lines for 4 buttons on the display (the 5th is the power button which is treated differently).

The lines should turn from white to green while that button is being pressed.

Replace the battery in the remote. Sometimes in shipping or storage something will rest on a button and drain the battery down. We can also send you another remote to try.

If that doesn't work, return the CU for inspection at your convenience or we can take a look at it (while in your plane) at Sun n Fun in a few months.

[tomagin]

OK, off to get a new battery and try again.

This is only a minor annoyance as with the current software I believe all the remote will do is turn on power [ie push the green button remotely]. If the battery doesn't do it you can look at it at SNF in April. Not a huge job to get the CU out but certainly not as easy as it is in some other airplanes. I'd rather fly at the moment!

So, if I have the procedure correct I follow instructions and push all 5 buttons when "associating" but in the end only the center button which does not change the color of any of the text lines should turn the unit on from 30 ft.

I now have 10.2 hours on the plane. The only thing I could have done better was setting up the alarms. If I had it to do over I would disable all the aural alarms other than oil pressure/fuel pressure for the first couple of flights and fine tune the ranges afterwards. Even the oil pressure and fuel pressure are things that get a lot of visual attention the first time out. I had the Dynon D180 and the VP200 competing for my attention eventually resulting in only feedback in the headset. I have all the Dynon alarms off and rely on the VP-200.

The other thing is to better understand the emergency procedures. In other words read the manual a few more times and try to drill in exactly what happens when you push the red button, soft key, etc.

Regards,

Tom

[Marc Ausman]

Yes, push the 5 buttons, but in series, not together at one time.

For the alarms, remember that you can turn them on and off my mode of flight. So turn off the oil pressure alarm in prelfight, before start, etc. for example.

[tomagin]

Marc, I put a new battery in the FOB. I removed and reinstalled the antenna and even used a mirror to check if the contact pin was in the antenna fitting on the CU. No joy after many attempts.

If you think the FOB could be the problem I'd be happy to test another and if no success return it at Sun & Fun. The blue LED inside works normally. No way to tell if it transmits. If there has never been another bad one it's probably unlikely. Ditto the antenna.

By the way, I was not up to date on the software. i's and j's look pretty close. I needed to install "j" because I have a Dynon EMS. No problem. Done. Never saw any manifestation of the bug.

I can't think of anything else to try. I let my 4 year old granddaughter have a go figuring even she could follow the instructions but the same result.

Regarding the alarms. It was more about having the correct limits set than the modes. It's working well now and I'm adding back alarms in certain modes now that I have more experience running the engine and electrical system. Pushing the amperage limits didn't help. For example on flight number 3 as I came into the pattern the shift to Landing Mode kicked on 300W of landing/taxi lights [the Vans light kit] which added around 28A, add the fuel pump and then hit the flap switch ------ "Check high amperage".... "Low Voltage"..... I'll be replacing the lights with lower W bulbs from Home Depot or LED's. The nice thing about the VP-200 was that it showed me exactly what was going on, where the high current draw was and what to about it.

Regards,

Tom